There are two hot springs called Tatwani in Kangra district, and a lot of what is written about them mixes the two up. One is on the Gaj khad near Shahpur, close to Kangra, and you can drive almost to the water. The other is in the forest above Baijnath, near Deol, at the end of a forest walk — that is the one people go to from Bir.
The Shahpur one is about 20 km from us by road, and the start of the Baijnath walk is about 70. Here is what each is like, and how to reach it.
Why two places have the same name
Tatwani simply means hot water — tatta pani. Any place where hot water comes out of the ground can end up with the name, and in Himachal a few have. There is a third, better-known one, Tattapani on the Sutlej near Shimla, which is a different trip altogether.
So when someone tells you they went to Tatwani, ask which one.
Tatwani on the Gaj khad, near Shahpur
This is the one closer to us. It is in Shahpur tehsil, on the Gaj khad — the stream that comes down from the Dhauladhar and flows on to Pong.
There is a small Shiva temple at the spring, and two baths: an open one for men, and a closed room for women. Many people finish with a quick dip in the cold stream alongside.
On Mahashivratri people come here for a holy dip, so expect company that day.
The place was neglected for a long time. In 2025 money was sanctioned for the Rait–Nerti–Machhial–Tatwani road and for Tatwani's upkeep, so things should keep getting better. Do not expect much in the way of facilities yet.
How to reach the Shahpur Tatwani
It is about 20 km from us by road. Most guides send you in from Rait, on the Shahpur road, turning off through Salol. From us there is a shorter way west through the villages. Either way the last part is on narrow village roads, so ask us the morning you go and we will tell you which way is in better shape.
It fits easily into half a day. Go in the morning, have a long soak, and be back for lunch.
Two village temples are on the same side, Kalka Mata at Samirpur and Kathla Mata near Salol, and with them it makes a full, easy day — see Kalka Mata, Kathla Mata and Tattapani in one day.
Tatwani above Baijnath, near Deol
The second Tatwani is at the other end of the valley, in Baijnath tehsil, and people there call it Baijnath's Manikaran.
Here the hot water comes out in the forest beside a small Shiva temple, and collects in pools among the rocks and in a pool by the temple.
You cannot drive to this one. The road goes up past Deol, and from the end of it the walk is about three km each way through the forest — following the big water pipe of the hydro project uphill, and crossing a stream before you reach the springs. Most people take about two hours going up and an hour coming down.
From us the start of the walk is about 70 km, most of it on the highway through Palampur and Baijnath. From Bir it is much closer, which is why most people who do this walk are staying there.
Before you do the Baijnath walk
- Start early, so that you are walking back down in daylight.
- The mobile network comes and goes. Tell someone where you are going.
- The rocks near the water are slippery with algae. Walk carefully around the pools.
- Wear proper shoes. It is a rough forest path with rocks and boulders.
- Carry water and something to eat. There is a small café on the way up, but do not count on it being open.
- People here are used to these paths. If someone says it is ten minutes more, give it half an hour.
- No plastic, no smoking, no drinking — and carry your rubbish back down.
- Do not go in the monsoon. The forest is thick, the stream rises and the path becomes risky.
- The first time, go with someone who has done it.
Which Tatwani should you go to?
If you are staying in or around Kangra or Dharamshala, the Gaj one near Shahpur. It is close, you can drive to it, and it fits into half a day.
If you are staying in Bir or Baijnath, or you want a proper forest walk with a hot bath at the end of it, the one above Baijnath.
Is the water good for you?
Both springs smell of sulphur, and people come to them for aching joints and skin trouble. We are not going to promise it cures anything. What we can say is that a long soak after a morning's walk feels very good.
A few things to keep in mind:
- Take off silver jewellery before you get in. Sulphur water turns silver black.
- Do not use soap or shampoo in the pools. Other people bathe there too.
- If you have heart trouble or high blood pressure, keep the soak short.
- Drink water. Hot water dries you out more than you notice.
What to carry
- A towel and a change of clothes
- A plastic bag for your wet things
- Slippers for around the baths
- Water and something to eat
- For the Baijnath walk: proper shoes and a light jacket
Where to stay
The Shahpur Tatwani is an easy half-day from us, and after a morning in hot sulphur water, the pool makes a very different kind of afternoon. Rooms are ₹999 a night, or ₹1,699 with air conditioning.
If you are going to the Baijnath one, Baijnath temple is on the way, and the two fit into the same day if you start early.