Bir is known for paragliding, but there is a good half day to be had there on the ground as well: Tibetan monasteries, a tea factory, a short walk to the waterfall at Gunehar, cafés, and the landing ground at sunset. It is worth knowing, because on some days the wind decides that nobody flies.
Bir is about 65 km from us, east past Palampur and Baijnath. We have written separately about the flight, and why we think it works better as a day trip. This is the rest of Bir.
A little about Bir
Bir village is at about 1,525 metres. The take-off at Billing is on the ridge above it, at about 2,400 metres, and the landing ground is at Chowgan, beside the Tibetan colony.
In October 2015 Bir hosted the Paragliding World Cup — the first time it came to India — with 118 pilots from 35 countries.
The Tibetan colony came before the paragliders. It was set up in 1966, when the third Neten Chokling Rinpoche bought land here and settled some 300 Tibetan families on it. Most of what you will see on the ground in Bir — the monasteries, the food — comes from that.
Things to do in Bir
Visit the monasteries
Chokling monastery, in the Tibetan colony, is the monastery of Neten Chokling Rinpoche, of the Nyingma school of Tibetan Buddhism. It is close to the landing ground, so it is an easy walk.
Palpung Sherabling, the seat of the Tai Situpa, founded in 1975, is in the forest off the road from Baijnath towards Mandi. It is worth the detour.
At both, take your shoes off before going inside, walk around the prayer wheels and stupas clockwise, and ask before you photograph anyone.
Deer Park Institute
A centre for the study of classical Indian wisdom traditions, started in 2006. It holds courses through the year; check what is on while you are there.
The Bir tea factory
Bir has a long-standing cooperative tea factory, and it gives tours of how the tea is made. Buy a packet here rather than in a market.
Walk to the waterfall at Gunehar
Gunehar is a small village close to Bir, and from it a short walk takes you to a waterfall. It has the most water after the monsoon, in September and October. Wear shoes with some grip; the path can be slippery.
Sunset at the landing ground
In the evening people gather at the landing ground in Chowgan to watch the light go over the valley and, on a flying day, the last gliders coming in.
Drive up to Billing
Even if you are not flying, the road up to Billing — about 16 km of hill road from Bir — is worth it for the view from the ridge. On a flying day you can watch the pilots take off. The road is narrow and steep; let the jeeps have the way.
Eat
Bir's cafés are good, and many of them are in the Tibetan colony. Try the Tibetan food while you are here — thukpa, momos and laphing.
Tatwani and Baijnath
The walk to Tatwani, the hot spring in the forest above Baijnath, starts about 25 km from Bir — see the two Tatwani hot springs. And Baijnath temple is about 12 km back towards Palampur.
When is the best time to visit Bir?
October and November are the main flying months, and they have the clearest weather of the year. March to May is the second season. In the monsoon there is no flying, but the monasteries and cafés are still there and the valley is at its greenest.
How to reach Bir from Kangra
Bir is about 65 km from us: east on the highway through Palampur and Baijnath, then a short climb up to Bir. By train, the nearest station on the narrow-gauge line is Ahju, just below Bir.
Where to stay
If you are coming mainly to fly, staying down in the valley and driving up gives you a better plan B when the wind is wrong. If it is Bir itself you want — the monasteries, the cafés, a few slow days — then stay in Bir, and stop with us for a night on the way back. Rooms are ₹999 a night, or ₹1,699 with air conditioning.